Title (Qty)	Price

Your Basket is empty.

Sub Total	£0.00
Shipping Total	£0.00
Discount	£0.00

Total	£0.00

tips

Road Trip Part 6 – The Lid

May 27, 2017

When going on a long journey, especially travelling down motorways, a good helmet is absolutely essential for more reasons than you might think. The key things you and I will need out of a helmet for this purpose are:

A good fit
Sound Dampening
Good ventilation
Anti-fog measures

These are the core essentials of what’s needed from a helmet when going down motorways. There are of course a few optional extras and features you may want but those four points are critical. So why would we want a good fit? A good fit is important because this is going to directly affect how protective the helmet is. I hate to say it- but the longer you’re out on the road, the more of a chance you’ll be involved in an accident. There are some crazy people in cars out there and every minute you’re out on the bike increases the probability of you crossing paths with one. But this is something we already know- we’re bikers. We expect it and that’s why we’re so vigilant. But should the worst happen- that helmet needs to perform to the best of it’s protective ability. So get one that fits you perfectly.

A good fit will also affect the sound dampening. This is more important than it may sound [no pun intended] as Tinnitus is absolutely a thing that happens to people that ride a lot and don’t look after their ears. Riding at higher speeds makes both the engine in your bike and the noise of the wind rushing around your helmet even louder and exposure to these loud noises for long periods of time can really do some damage. So a good fitting helmet will contribute to less road noise. However- despite your helmet being a good fit it is always advised that you wear ear plugs as well.

Good ventilation is a point that is important by it’s self and because it can contribute toward the need for good Anti-fog measures. Your head will be surrounded by padding, which is surrounded by foam, which is all contained in a shell so it makes sense that it can get quite warm in there in the summer. Good ventilation is needed so that you can keep comfortable and maintain concentration on your riding, which would be difficult with sweat dripping into your eyes.

And lastly – anti-fog measures, if you’re wearing a helmet with a visor. This is really important too as it affects your ability to see where you’re going and react to hazards. When you’re riding with the visor down, all that breath is contained in your helmet and is drawn out by ventilation and downward through the collar of the helmet. But your breath is hot and heat rises, so naturally your visor is going to catch some of it. Ideally- you would want a helmet that either comes with a Pinlock Insert or one can be purchased for it. A Pinlock insert is like giving your visor double glazing with a hydrophobic surface which prevents fog from sticking. Allowing you to ride with clear vision and to the best of your ability.

So with all of these points in mind- which helmet would I choose?

My personal choice would be the Bell Qualifier DLX. I’ve already written a blog about the Qualifier DLX before so I won’t go on for too long about it. But in short- it meets all of those core requirements and then beats them by throwing in extras- all while still being a great quality and affordable helmet with prices starting from £169.99 which is a bargain. It’s a well known brand that uses quality materials, their products fit great and you can be certain the helmet is doing all it can to make your ride safer. On top of the core requirements- it also has a few extra features that really drew my attention

It has recesses by the ears, so wearing ear plugs and communications is going to be much more comfortable than in some other helmets of the same or lower price range. It features a recess on the outside for Bluetooth communication devices such as the Bell Sena SMH10. It even comes with a photocromic, transition visor- it tints it’s self! No need to pack extra visors for the sunny days or worry about reaching for your sun-visor lever. In the bright light it will darken and in the darker weathers it will stay clear, all while providing UV protection for your eyes- a fantastic idea. It just seems like a helmet that was made for longer journeys and to make them as comfortable as it can.

So maybe you’re approaching your budget a bit too quickly or perhaps you’ve gone over it already. So you’re looking for a less expensive alternative. Personally- I could stick with the helmet I already have- the Agrius Rage SV and it’s a helmet I’ve already written about too. This helmet already fits me great- it’s comfy, the noise isn’t too much [at least going as fast as 50mph] it’s a really effective alternative at prices starting from £41.99. But there are a few things it needs. Firstly- the ventilation works but isn’t great for keeping the visor clear of fog, so you need to invest in getting the Pinlock Insert for it. And just as an added extra- I would wear a balaclava with it as well as my ear plugs. The plugs and extra snugness in the fit would really help with noise reduction and ensure my ears aren’t ringing by the time I arrive at where I’m going. So for a combined total from £62, it’s a really great alternative at far less than half the price of the Qualifier DLX.

So those are the helmets I would pick for my journey. I’m really hoping I can afford a Qualifier DLX but my Agrius Rage will do the job just fine- minus a couple of luxuries. Thanks for reading everybody! This is the last part of my Road Trip Blog series for now but perhaps when I get back from it- I’ll write a quick something about how it went.

Until next time!
-MattW at Ghostbikes.com

Road Trip Part 5 – Boots and Gloves

May 21, 2017

So, if you’re out on the road, taking a long journey the next thing you need it a good quality pair of gloves. Any biker that’s gone for more than half an hour on roads with speeds that exceed the usual 20 to 30 mph know what I’m talking about here. Cool air rushing past the fingers, sapping the warmth away from your hands- even though it’s not winter any more you can still end up with frost bite. As well as being painful- it can affect your reaction time in the moment as well as just being bloody unpleasant if your fingers are in agony and you’ve still got several hours to go before you get to where you’re going. However, gloves aren’t like jackets or trousers that have features that can be adjusted or removed to fit your environmental situation. If you’re wearing gloves that are too cold- you’re going to be too cold. And the same goes for the opposite unless you pack a pair of each. The gloves I use aren’t sold yet but the closest gloves I have found to them are the Agrius Slate leather Motorcycle Gloves.

Agrius Slate

And I’m glad they’re not a close, tight fit, so I’ve got just a tiny bit of extra room in mine- here’s why. My trick involves a cheap pair of wool gloves and a pair of Vinyl or rubber gloves. In the hot weather ride with your bike gloves as normal. In the cold, you can put on the wool gloves first, then the vinyl gloves and wear your bike gloves over the top. The wool gloves provide warmth, the vinyl gloves trap that warmth in as well as provide extra waterproofing and more of a windbreak and your regular bike gloves on the outside provide the protection. I never go anywhere without a pair of vinyl and wool gloves just in case for this reason.

Buffalo Spartan

But if possible- I’d rather have a pair of gloves I hadn’t have to use little hacks on- if only because I’ll be filling up on fuel a few times on the journey each way and I don’t want to have to remove three pairs of gloves every time I go to pay. So I’ve been pondering very deeply about the Buffalo Spartan Gloves. They’re a good fit, they have a pleasantly warm feeling interior, knuckle protection, they’re waterproof and have a leather outer material for breaking through the wind. They may get a tad hot if I were riding in the blazing sun down village roads at 20 to 30 mph but on the motorways I think they’d be just right.

Richa Adventure

Now on to boots. It’s largely down to personal preference and what you find comfortable. For some that is a shorter style of boot but for me personally it is a slightly taller style of boot. Something nice and high to keep the socks held up and keeping your feet warm. Something covering as much of your lower legs as possible that provides a sturdy break against the wind, a good amount of protection and waterproof. For me, these preferences are all met by the Richa Adventure Boots. They may seem a little bit out of place- wearing adventure boots with touring gear and all but hey- it is an adventure!

And that’s all for gloves and boots! In the next and final part I’ll be talking about helmets- which one I’d rather have, possible alternatives and the importance of a good helmet while travelling long distances. Thanks for reading everybody!

Until next time!

-MattW at Ghostbikes.com

Size Advice for Jackets, Trousers and Gloves

April 15, 2017

Hello everyone! This is going to be my third and final blog entry on sizing advice for the time being so I’m going to use it to cover Jackets, Trousers and Gloves all in one go. So I’ll start with a general rule or two for finding a Jacket and trousers.

First rule, at least for jackets, is to shop as though you would for a normal coat. I’ve not personally come across many jackets where I’ve had to size up from the usual just because I’m shopping for bike gear. I wear a Large coat size normally so the Large motorcycle jackets suit me just fine more often than not. But it also depends on what you intend to wear underneath the jacket too. For example, the jacket I currently own is a Large and fits me just fine while wearing a t-shirt and hoodie underneath but it a sort of middle ground jacket between being designed for summer and waterproof. If I wanted specifically a Summer jacket for keeping cool then a large would still suit me just fine. But if I wanted a winter or cold weather jacket, I might consider getting an Extra Large jacket because I’ll intend to wear it with a long sleeve shirt and a thicker fleece or hoodie underneath to keep warm. So if you know you won’t be all layered up underneath- your usual size for a coat should do just fine. If you know you’re going to wrap up a little more underneath, try a size up.

The same rule more or less applies to trousers too but it’s a good idea to size up. Normally I’d be wearing a Large size for pants but because I usually wear jeans underneath I go for the XL. You may be able to get away with getting your usual pants size though. It depends on what you’ll be wearing underneath and whether you remove the thermal lining from the motorcycle pants if they have one. But in almost all of the cases I have seen people have decided to go a size up.

But I think it’s important to say, no matter what size you are in motorcycle clothing- don’t think of it as a reflection of your actual size or weight and don’t feel self conscious. It’s the nature of motorcycle gear to be tight on and I’ve had a few customers before who have been devastated to move up one, two, even three sizes to get a good fit, thinking it meant they were a larger person than they thought. The size inside the Jacket or inside the Pants isn’t the size of you- it is literally the size of the jacket or the pants based on how the manufacturer’s have measured it. And they change from brand to brand, from design to design as we all do from person to person.

So don’t feel bad about bumping up a couple of numbers- if it’s a good fit and it works, that’s all that matters. In the end a good fit is important. It means all the protective measures in the garments are positioned in the right place to keep you as safe as they can and they’re going to be as comfy as they can be for you while you’re riding so they don’t cause a distraction. This is especially important for you tour bikers out there who can go on rides for really long times. So a good fit can contribute to comfort, concentration, your control over the bike, your safety in an accident and even how waterproof your gear is if your gear is advertised as such. For example, if you get a waterproof jacket that’s too small, you may get wet under the belt, down the pants and on the arms. A wet trip you could’ve been spared from if you’d decided to not be so self conscious and go the size up, providing the extra inch or so needed to cover those areas.

Now on to gloves. Shopping for a pair of motorcycle gloves can be quite tricky. It depends a lot on the style of glove and what it is made of. It can also depend on the brand and model of the glove as some of them can be known to have a slightly longer finger than normal or broader palm with a shorter finger. The get a good baseline of what size glove you are, if you don’t already know it, you can measure across your palm and compare the measurement with the chart above. It might be spot on or it might be a little bit off but either way it’s a good starting point. When buying textile gloves you may find that the chart is more or less correct but when buying leather you may find you want to go a size up. As someone who’s glove size changes from large to medium depending on the glove, thanks to my lanky yet thin fingers, believe me I know it’s frustrating.

If you try on a pair of gloves and find the fit is only just a little bit tight, maybe stick with it for a little bit. Keep wearing them for five or ten minutes, give them time to form to the shape of your hands and you’ll find the material gives a little bit more room. Your glove size can also go up depending on the purpose of the glove. For example- Motocross Gloves tend to be more or less correct when following the chart as the fabric stretches for a close fit. But if you’re shopping for a thick pair of warm winter gloves with all the waterproof trimmings, or you want the option of wearing another pair of thin gloves underneath- you’re probably going to want to move up a size.

And that’s all, folks. That’s all of the sizing advice I can give you. A general rule to follow in these cases is -if in doubt; size up, unless it’s a helmet- it’s always better to have a little too much than too much little.

Thanks for reading everybody!

Until next time
-MattW at Ghostbikes.com

Does Your Helmet Fit Properly?

April 5, 2017

A question that many people ask when coming in-store to try on helmets is whether or not the helmet looks like a good fit. Sometimes the question is “Is it supposed to be this tight?” or “Is it supposed to be this loose?” and in such cases the answer is obvious. But sometimes it’s a little harder to tell and people who have their helmets delivered to them at home don’t have the staff from Ghostbikes.com there to help out. So I thought I should make a blog post that can help people know if the fit of their helmet is right for them or even how to pick a helmet size if they’re unsure.

First of all- what size are you? If you’ve been a biker a while or worn helmets before, chances are that you’ve already got a pretty good idea. If you’ve no clue- no worries! All you need is a tape measure or a piece of string long enough to measure around your head. If you’re using the tape, simply measure around your head and see how many centimeters you get. If you’re using string, you can measure around your head the same way, mark or cut the string to length, lay it out flat and measure it with a ruler. Once you have your measurement in centimeters you can see the above chart to find out what size helmet you should be. But do keep in mind- this is just a guide.

Helmets are like any other piece of bike gear when it comes to sizes. Your size can go up or even down depending on the brand or style of the helmet. You may find you’re a medium like me in the Agrius Helmets but find that the HJC Helmets are very tight and you need to move up to a large. It’s because all the brands use different shell shapes, padding, foams, fastenings, materials and mechanisms for things like visors. Lots of little details that can sometimes add up to a big difference. But at least by following a size chart you have a good idea to start from.

When you’ve selected a helmet and slipped it on it’s time to judge the fit. Firstly- The helmet should be a little tight. Not face-crushingly constricting but just a bit. People have shopped with us the the past and turned down helmets for being slightly snug and opted for larger helmets when that slightly snug feeling is exactly what you need. There should be some pressure on your cheeks from the cheek padding but not so much that it’s forcing your face and lips into an expression like a fish in a vice. You should be able to feel the helmet all the way around the crown of your head. It needs to be comfortable though with no painful pressure, especially around the forehead and temples as this could lead to headaches while riding.

If you’ve found a helmet with good snugness on the cheeks, a full and comfortable fit around the crown of your head, then it’s time for a slip test. Fasten the helmet up and try to keep your head held facing straight forward while gently trying to move the helmet. If the helmet is a good fit it will cling to your skin and want to move your head with it. If you’re slipping around in the helmet at this phase- it may be a bit too loose. If you’ve found a helmet that meets all of these criteria but is just a tiny bit snug- this is a good thing. Your helmet is brand new and will naturally feel a slight bit tighter. But as you wear it for a while the padding and foams will wear in, forming to the shape of your head to give you that little bit more room for comfort.

There are many reasons you don’t want a helmet that fits too loose or too tightly. A loose helmet can shift, twist and even smash against your head in an unfortunate impact which will minimize it’s ability to do it’s job. If it’s really loose- it may even slip off. A tight helmet, while it will likely stay on your head and also protect you in a crash- it could be what caused you to crash in the first place. A tight helmet can bring on headaches that can lead to other symptoms like neck, shoulder and eye strain. It affects your ability to control the bike, your reaction times and your concentration. And you need those on the road, especially when your ride only has two wheels [maybe three] and no nice metal box around you to protect you. When choosing your helmet, be picky, be fussy, be selective and be certain. It’s your head after all.

Thanks for reading everybody, I hope this helps anyone that has been having trouble with helmets and sizes

Until next time!
-MattW at Ghostbikes.com

Advice on Purchasing Motorcycle Boots and Shoes

April 3, 2017

Hello everyone! It’s been brought to my attention that one of the more common questions we get here at Ghostbikes.com is regarding shoe and boots sizing. So I thought it might be helpful of me to make a blog post that you all can refer to with a bit of advice on shopping for new motorcycle footwear.

The first piece of advice I can give is this- Do not go thinking the rules apply to all the boots you may want to try on. Depending on the brand, the style of boots, the shape of the boots and the features on/in the boots- the game can change between almost every pair. You may find you’re a size 9 normally in your trainers and then you jump up to a 10 in one brand and style of a motorcycle boot and then to an 11 or a 12 in another. I see it happen a lot and it’s nothing to be concerned or self conscious about- you don’t have freakish feet and you’re not being a pain. This is simply just the nature of buying motorcycle gear in general- no two brands or styles are the same and it’s a common occurrence even when trying on jackets, trousers, helmets, and gloves. We all come in different shapes and sizes so it’s all about finding something right for you.

Second piece of advice- Try going up a size. Typically your boots will wear in and give a bit of extra room after some time, which can throw off your expectations if you’ve been trying on someone else’s boots for fit. But bike boots tend to be tight by nature, if you’re a size 10 foot trying to get into a size 10 motorcycle boot, nine time out of ten- you’re going to feel the squeeze. So going for the size 11 might be all the extra room you need.

Another good thing to do, if possible, is to come in-store and try the boots on before you buy them. I know it’s not ideal if you don’t live local but it’s far better to be able to come in store, try something on and know whether it fits you or not before you leave with it. You may have your heart set on a certain pair such as the Akito Stealth Motorcycle Boots only to find that no matter the sizes you go up in- the narrowness of the boot is just too tight for people with broad feet. Believe me, I’ve seen it, I’ve had customers desperately telling me that they’re sure they’re a size 9 but find even a size 12 is too tight in that particular boot. If this is happening to you, don’t worry, it’s not your fault and we believe you that you’re normally a size 9. The shape of the boot just isn’t for you. But what we will do in that case is direct you to alternatives and do what we can to sort you out with something that is comfortable. So being able to pop in-store is much better at accomplishing this, as you can imagine.

Don’t be afraid to phone in, email or comment on social media with questions. If you’re wondering whether you should go up a size or not in a particular boot, you can always ask. Maybe you feel you have broader feet? Concerned the boots you’re coming all the way for might be a bit too narrow? Measure the width of your foot at it’s widest point and again in the middle from the arch to the outer side- if we’ve got it here, we’ll take the same measurements of the boot it’s self and let you know.

Another piece of advice I can share is to wear socks that aren’t to thick or too thin. Find a pair of socks in your drawer that is a sort of happy medium between your winter and summer selection. This is so that when you’ve found a pair that fits while wearing your thinnest pair of socks- you’re not going to discover they’re too tight when you try the boots on while wearing a thick pair of socks. With a medium pair you’ve set a good middle ground for the spring and autumn with a perfect fit. You’ve got a little extra breathing room and ventilation in the summer with thin socks. And you’ll have room enough for a thick pair of socks with a snug fit for the winter.

Is there something about sizes that has you confused? Maybe you’re a size 9 but don’t know if that means you’re also a 43 or a 44. If you take a look at the conversion chart above- you can see where you fall in that scale too. You can also see your size in US measurements too as some of our boots, such as our Oneal Motocross Boots, have the US sizes on the box. Don’t fret, you haven’t magically gone up yet another size, the US just starts their measurements from 1 instead of from 0 like us, which is why you’re always a shoe size bigger over there.

So, in summary:
– Consider yourself one size higher in bike gear [9/10 times it works]
– Wear a medium thickness pair of socks when trying them on
– Come in-store if at all possible
– Take measurements if you’re unsure and message in for help
– Don’t worry or get self conscious if the boots you want don’t fit like you hoped. We can help.

And that’s all the advice I have to give on sizing yourself up for a pair of boots. I really hope it helps but like I said- all boots are different. They come in all shapes and sizes just like we do. If you’re still having trouble, do contact us for more info using the number or information at the top of the web page. Thanks for reading, all!

Until next time
-MattW at Ghostbikes.com

Title (Qty)

Price

Total

£0.00

Specification